Clarksburg Ava The Little Wine-growing Region That Could

Established as an American Viticultural Area in 1985, Clarksburg is marked by its location along the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta, which pulls in ocean breezes and creates a cool maritime climate. Here the “heritage grapes” are the crisp Chenin Blanc and the bold, chewy Petite Sirah — varieties that produce excellent stand-alone wines, but also excel as blending varietals. [...] 90 percent of the grapes grown in Clarksburg are sold outside the county, predominantly to neighboring Napa Valley. A little bit of fresh, acidic Clarksburg Chenin or brawny Petite Sirah can round out a Napa Valley blend — and as long as Clarksburg fruit makes up less than 25 percent of the final wine, the winery can still put “Napa Valley” on the label. The Old Sugar Mill, a 1930s beet processing facility, helped Clarksburg gain steam when it opened in 2005 as a multivendor tasting room and custom-crush site. There’s a sense of solitude along the craggy farm roads lined with vines, altogether more rustic than what you’d find in Napa or Sonoma. To find them, I took to the single-lane back roads that follow the Sacramento River to discover what Clarksburg’s winemakers are creating with their heritage grapes. “You’re almost there!” reads Julie Russell’s sandwich board signs, sporting an attachment of Mylar balloons. Craig, a Napa County native, grew up in a family of vintners, but followed a different career path, establishing his own general contracting business. To hear the couple tell the story, this was more than a gentle suggestion: “ She was always saying, ‘You have to get into grapes, you have to get into grapes,’” says Julie. Using Craig’s connections in Napa, the Russells started buying fruit from a few trusted grape growers and experimented with a winemaking side business. [...] the couple’s “side business” blossomed, so they transformed the barn into a tasting room and built a winery next door. [...] her first estate vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon, from the modest vines circling the parking lot, is now aging in barrels. Clarksburg’s small-town quaintness extends to the Julietta tasting room, where the walls are decorated with works by local artists. Lounge chairs and sofas invite lingering. Outside, visitors can enjoy the bocce ball court, putting green and picnic area — and, of course, the bucolic serenity of the Clarksburg countryside. [...] she seemed to take personal pride in the 2013 Beverly’s Legacy, a melting-pot blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Tempranillo, Grenache, Mouvedre and Petite Sirah named in honor of the woman who got the Russells “into grapes.” The outdoor tasting room was a bit chilly for Miner and me during my windy winter visit. Though the red wines also seemed to be affected by the cold atmosphere (the Zinfandel and Petit Verdot refused to open up), his Lodi Albariño was perfectly enjoyable — the proper balance of crisp acidity, a creamy mouthfeel and beautiful floral aromatics. The century-old barn that sits on the property now houses the indoor-outdoor tasting room. The tasting room patio overlooks an outdoor area that calls to mind a beach resort, complete with palm trees, lounge chairs, and a small stage for local bands, wedding ceremonies and, once a month, church services. The newest addition is an even larger event space just a few yards from the tasting room, able to accommodate up to 500 guests — perfect for the summer concert series Miner has in the works. “He was the first to plant (grapes) in Clarksburg,” says granddaughter Jody Bogle, director of public relations for Bogle Vineyards. Grandchildren Ryan, Jody and Warren Bogle have their hands in all aspects of the business, from tasting room hospitality to vineyard management. While I tasted a few current releases and futures (the estate was having a barrel-sampling event that day), my host, “CC,” toured me through the quaint tasting room. The Bogle pioneering spirit seems to endure to this day with the few family-run wineries recently planting their roots in Clarksburg soil. Julietta Winery’s interpretation is a perfect balance of crisp acidity, subtle fruit aromas of apples and pears, and an almost creamy mouthfeel that gives the wine an enjoyable weight and body. The 2014 vintage, sourced from the Bogles’ Sutter Ranch, is one that will take your palate on a journey, first bursting with jammy dark fruits, then toward a savory herbaceous mid-palate, finishing with plush tannins and lingering hints of cacao. If you’re in the mood for some local flavor, Shorty’s La Amistad Cafe, on the corner of Jefferson Boulevard and Clarksburg Road, is a long-standing community favorite for Mexican food.