Comment on Retracing Klondike miners’ golden steps

Retracing Klondike miners’ golden steps

Three large cruise ships were already docked in the harbor, bringing some of the astounding 1.2 million annual visitors to the tiny port town. Nowadays, Skagway hosts a reverse Gold Rush, in which people come to leave their money behind in gift shops, restaurants and tour offices, rather than trying to pull it out of the earth. Peering out the windows to the streets at the crowds of freshly arrived ship passengers, I could easily imagine the room’s original occupants shouting service offerings to the throngs below. For the hardy, it’s still possible to buy (or rent) a pack and gear in Skagway, hire a guide and hike for five days on the original trail over the steep Chilkoot Pass into the “howling wilderness” of the Yukon territory, possibly seeing bears, wolves and bald eagles along the way. [...] named for its harsh weather, inhospitable marshes and soul-crushing bleakness, the valley lived up to its name during my journey, whipping me with wet sleet and draping me in a soggy blanket of fog amid impenetrable darkness as I slogged forward, hoping I wouldn’t stumble over a cliff. The day after my run, I was able to retrace my route from the comfort of one of the vintage railcars, enjoying sweeping views of waterfalls, forests, raging rapids and distant glaciers, as well as that accursed road. Preserved about 30 feet beneath the dry frozen soil were thousands of mammoth tusks, fossilized skulls of saber-toothed tigers and bones of arctic camels, as well as arrowheads and other tools of ancient native cultures. Especially he loved to run in the dim twilight of the summer midnights, listening to the subdued and sleepy murmurs of the forest, reading signs and sounds as a man may read a book, and seeking for the mysterious something that called — called, waking or sleeping, at all times, for him to come. [...] Spring streets, (907) 983-6000, www.westmarkhotels.com/Skagway.php. Comfortable, updated rooms in a friendly hotel with bar, restaurant and the only wireless Internet in town. [...] Steele streets, (867) 667-7554, www.klondikerib.com. Offers guided five-day hikes along the Chilkoot Trail, the original gold stampeders’ trail over the mountains, with the option of taking the railroad back on the return journey. Grab nine friends, an RV, maybe some costumes and run 115 miles from Skagway to Whitehorse. Since 1983, annually in September.

 

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