From a traveler’s perspective, Nuremberg — Bavaria’s second city — has it all: excellent museums, thought-provoking history, glorious red-sandstone Gothic architecture and a charming Old Town encircled by a nearly intact medieval wall. The popular restaurant Bratwursthäusle is a great place to sample “3 im Weckle” (three Nuremberger bratwurst in a blankie). Dedicated to the cultural history of the German-speaking world, this museum is highlighted by its German art collection, which includes works by Lucas Cranach the Elder and the only original Albrecht Dürer paintings in town. Recently, I had the thrill of touring the Historic Art Bunker, a series of cellars used by the Nazis to store masterpieces in anticipation of Allied bombing. The pieces stored here included regalia of the Holy Roman Empire and the city’s own treasures, such as the tabernacle from the grand St.