Trekking through a Tolkienesque rain forest of twisted tree trunks, I startle a bald eagle from its perch in a moss-draped hemlock. [...] the bruin has other priorities, and when I cautiously reach the beach he is ambling away, noshing shoreline munchies delivered by last night’s high tide. British Columbia is known for its easy access, from cities to wilderness, and Juan de Fuca Provincial Park alongside the far-flung outpost of Port Renfrew on Vancouver Island’s west coast is just that.