Comment on Rick Steves: Greece’s unspoiled Peloponnese

Rick Steves: Greece’s unspoiled Peloponnese

Attached to the rest of Greece by a thin isthmus, this rugged land has always seemed isolated from the rest of the country. [...] while it holds some of Greece’s greatest ancient monuments — such as Olympia and Mycenae — there’s a lot more to this region. Many Mani towns feature sumptuous, old, fresco-slathered churches — pockets of brightness in this otherwise parched land. Sealed off from the rest of the country by a ridge of mountains, the Mani has, over the centuries, harbored refugees fleeing whatever crises were gripping the rest of Greece. People would hide out in the mountains, far from the coast and marauding pirate ships. Compared to your typical beach getaway, it’s an anti-resort — relaxed and relatively unspoiled. The people of Kardamyli — determined to keep their town real — passed a law that prohibits new construction over a certain height limit (ruling out big resorts). Having dinner under a leafy canopy at my favorite Kardamyli taverna brings back memories of my first meal here many years ago. [...] although its glory days have faded, the town retains a certain genteel panache, with palm-tree waterfronts, and narrow and atmospheric back streets lined with stately Venetian houses and inviting shops. The Lower Town hides on the sheltered side of the burly rock, tethered to the mainland by only a skinny spit of land (Monemvasia means “single entry”). Since Greece has been going through tough economic times, nervous tourists have been avoiding it.

 

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