Comment on Rustic ‘sugar shacks’ gaining new attention

Rustic ‘sugar shacks’ gaining new attention

When the sap starts running, maple trees are tapped and the watery liquid trickles into tin buckets to be boiled down in a nearby shack. Yes, noshing your way into a sugar coma at a cabane a sucre is a centuries-old spring ritual in this province that is the world’s biggest producer of maple syrup, and I’ve rarely missed one since moving here 28 years ago. Recently, sugar shacking has taken on a trendy twist, with top chefs creating creative angles on the age-old recipes served in rustic-chic downtown Montreal pop-up eateries. A wagon pulled by a pair of Belgian horses slowly takes us from the parking lot back in time, past a stone barn where the aroma of crusty bread baking in a wood-fired oven mingles with the sweetness of boiling maple sap billowing clouds into the air from the evaporator. The big log dining hall rocks with live fiddle music as adults and kids jig and sing along on the small dance floor. The jolly atmosphere is as much part of the experience as the endless parade of shared platters delivered by waiters in period costume — thick pea soup with ham, mounds of Canadian back bacon, maple-smoked ham, wood-fired baked beans, meatball stew, country sausages, tourtière (game meat pie), homemade pickles and oreilles de Christ, deep-fried ribbons of pork lard called “Christ’s ears.” Since it’s such a time-honored francophone tradition, it was only a matter of time before someone upped the cheesy sugar-shack ante and made it hip. There he trotted humble pig’s feet back into the limelight and took classic Quebec poutine up-market by partnering it with foie gras. Served beneath the gaze of taxidermy, the classic pea soup opener might contain chunks of foie gras. A giant omelet is stuffed with maple-smoked sturgeon sprinkled with beef brisket, and half a maple-glazed chicken is perched atop a beef tongue au jus. There might be maple-soaked roasted pig’s head or a lobster pie with layers of creme brulee and almond cream, all washed down with bottles of Quebec craft cider. The sugar-shack revolution Picard started has inspired urban chefs to play with the traditional spring menu as well, and that’s a good thing because landing a seat at Picard’s shack has become akin to winning a culinary lottery. A full-on traditional sugar shack, complete with a wood-burning fireplace and shack decor — La Cabane Chez Jean — takes over the Beach Chalet in Parc Jean-Drapeau on Notre-Dame Island in the St.

 

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