This recipe is a great lesson in how important it is to pair the elements in a preparation over the mere base or “prime matter” — in this case, scallops (as in, “Always white wine with fish”). The inherent bitterness of radicchio and Belgian endive, and the lemon juice of the finish, mean more to success than the scallops that highlight the dish. Acidity in a wine is key; moderate flavor and low alcohol are important, too.