By Sylvie Bigar, Special to The Washington Post TEL AVIV — “That’s all you’re eating, chérie? You crazy?” shrieks Julie Ozen, bracelets dangling, gray hair high in a tight bun. She’s not my grandma, but she might as well be. On my plate, today’s specials include artichoke hearts and figs stuffed with beef in a lemon and mint sauce, whole beets cradling a mix of rice, lentils and nuts, and plump fish balls — a sampling of the Egyptian dishes her mother taught her back in Cairo.