The mountains and cliff rose as high as 3,300 feet above the deck of the MS Nordnorge as it glided on a fall afternoon through the Raftsundet Strait, which is fed with the waters of the Arctic Ocean. The rugged crags, threaded with thin, silver waterfalls, floated by as passengers on the Nordnorge, one of the Hurtigruten fleet plying the Norwegian coast with cargos of tourists and fish meal, were in full picture-taking mode. As if the strait were not spectacular enough, the captain then slipped the 11,300-ton ship into Trollfjord, a mile-long finger of water between soaring cliffs, which seemed close enough to touch.