By Melissa Clark, The New York Times Do you have a desert island bean? Joe Yonan does, and it’s the chickpea. Yonan, the food editor of The Washington Post, adores all beans, so much so that he wrote an entire cookbook starring them, “Cool Beans” (Ten Speed Press, 2020). But he does play favorites, and the chickpea, with an earthy yet mild character that goes with nearly anything, comes out on top.