By Melissa Clark, The New York Times Of all the comforting, carb-heavy starches of the kitchen, potatoes rarely make it to the center of the plate. Unlike rice and pasta, which often take the starring role in main courses, potatoes are relegated to the sidelines — usually as fluffy fleshed arm candy to some meaty protein hogging the limelight. But to me, a crackly roasted potato is a worthy focus of any meal, especially when it’s drenched in a caper- and anchovy-flecked brown butter and topped with canned tuna. In a way, it’s very similar to one of my go-to pasta dishes.