You cannot taste purity, as a matter of course, it being the absence of the adulteration or alteration common to the production or preparation of our food. But the converse is true about many of the foods of Iceland. This small island nation — population 365,000, one-third the size of Colorado — is so keen on the purity of its foodstuffs that it is as if they appear on your plate free of the hand of man. And that, you can taste. I have eaten the lamb of New Zealand, of Western Colorado, of a small farm in Pennsylvania where the newborns graze on fronds of grass interspersed with wild garlic and onion.