It’s a remarkably blue British Columbia day, t-shirt weather in early May, as I paddle through coastal islands. Our little group of five people in three kayaks is pondering petroglyphs, guessing at the meaning of the red drawings. “Have you ever seen barnacles feed?” asks our leader, naturalist Emily Grubb. We scoot right up to where water meets rock and lean so far I fear we’ll tip over, concentrating on barnacles below.