As a recipe writer, I’ve asked you countless times to reach for canola “or another neutral oil.” But what if vegetable oil isn’t supposed to be flavorless after all? Most “neutral oil” got that way because it has been chemically refined, deodorized and otherwise processed in the name of granting it near-infinite shelf life. “Big ag has decided oil should be flavorless, but that runs counter to the larger food movement,” says Joshua Leidhecker, owner of Susquehanna Mills, in Pennsdale, Pennsylvania, where he makes a very different type of vegetable oil.

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