In Argentina, you can tell an empanada by the shape of its fold, hand-creased on top. Chicken empanadas carry four precise points in their crust. Beef empanadas feature a braid that curves to the right. Ham and cheese empanadas get their fold wrapped around them like shoelaces or a bow. At Che Tano, Janina Kendall’s spring lunch pop-up in the largely food-deserted Lincoln Park, the empanadas and their folds follow suit.