Sometimes, a restaurant reviewer runs the risk of upsetting a particular eatery’s clientele by exposing their slightly under-the-radar gem that they wish to keep to themselves. This very well may be the case with Boulder’s Il Pastaio, an understated strip-mall gem that dishes out top-shelf pasta and equally remarkable sauces. It’s both a cozy and compact spot and consequently, one’s well-advised to make reservations for dinner, even during the middle of the week.