Nothing kills a sightseeing buzz like waiting in line for hours to see a popular sight or being crammed shoulder to shoulder as you squint up at Michelangelo’s masterpiece. Located north of Marseille in the foothills of the Alps, Aix may not have any blockbuster sights, but its old center offers a postcard-worthy square around every corner. Bowls of fruit, landscapes and a few portraits were Cézanne’s passion. Because of his style — cube-shaped blocks of paint — he is often called the first “modern” painter. Estranged from his wife and son — who lived in Paris — he worked alone, lived alone and died alone, shunned by all but a few revolutionary young artists who understood his genius. While there’s almost no actual art by Cézanne in Aix, fans of the artist will want to pick up the “In the Footsteps of Cézanne” self-guided-tour flyer at the tourist information office, and follow the bronze pavement markers around town. Look for porcelain vases, paper or fabric flowers, a small plaster Cupid and other items that turn up in his famous still lifes. Built in a grid plan during the reign of King Louis XIV, it remains a peaceful, elegant residential neighborhood — although each of its mansions now houses several families rather than just one. Aix’s farmers’ market is a classic Provençal scene — rustic farmers selling fresh produce under the shade of graceful plane trees. Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio.

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