Not long ago in northeastern China, I found myself being driven in a Mercedes-Benz SUV down a winding country road, trailed by a small motorcade of local dignitaries, past flat-roofed brick farmhouses and fields full of stubbled cornstalks. Abruptly, we arrived at our destination, and my guide, Fangfang, slipped out of her high heels into fieldwork gear: pink sneakers with bright blue pom-poms on the Velcro straps. We were visiting a dinosaur dig, but there was also a museum under construction — steel beams riveted together to form layers, stacked one atop another, climbing a hillside in two parallel rows.