Two days of balloting mark a historic contest between political Islam and secularists connected to the Mubarak regime. Egyptians marvel at the experience.CAIRO — Seizing a moment in history they never imagined, the two old men walked arm in arm into a polling station on a day that was thoroughly and wonderfully Egyptian: Opinion polls were unreliable, intrigue was high, and there was a sense of destiny to rekindle the grandeur of the nation's ancient past.