Stone-clad villages cling to the lush, towering hills that surround the lake, and Baroque villas are sprinkled around its shores. Restaurants, both of the haute and the salt-of-the-earth varieties, serve just-pulled-from-the-lake fish and Lombardy regional specialties such as saffron risotto. Renting a car is the most convenient transport, but a more fun and intrepid way to get intimate with Como is by indulging in the frequent and vast ferry system that shuttles locals and visitors across the lake to villas and villages. Base yourself at the 94-room Grand Hotel Tremezzo — Lake Como, a villa that could have been a sibling to the Grand Budapest Hotel, conveniently located about midway on the banks of the lake with stunning views of Bellagio, across the water. The hotel itself offers plenty of diversions such as on-site wine tastings and cooking lessons, as well as painting classes and excursions in its private “water limo.” Hop on the ferry for the 15-minute ride across the lake to Bellagio, a pristine village of narrow, cobbled streets, cafes and shops that sell fancy olive oil and limoncello. Get a scoop or two of gelato from Excelsior Splendide, a kiosk just off the ferry dock, and be sure to order pinoli, or pine nut, if they have it, and then set about strolling the village. Tuck into a bowl of spaghetti, laced with a thick ragu of tomatoes, and locally caught pike, or try toc, a creamy fireplace-cooked polenta dish and Bellagio specialty. From there, get a water taxi to the only-accessible-by-boat Villa del Balbianello, an eye-pleasing 18th century property with a Hollywood pedigree, in that scenes from Star Wars: Take a tour of the villa, last home to eccentric explorer Count Guido Monzino who added several secret doors and passageways in fear that left-wing terrorists would abduct him and hold him for ransom. Continue the villa hopping tour — as one does in Lake Como — with a visit to Villa Carlotta in Tremezzina, a 17th century mansion that is home to an impressive art collection, including sculptures by Antonio Canova. The verdant botanical gardens surrounding the villa make for a peaceful way to end an afternoon of exploration. Back at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, take a seat at the recently rebooted in-house wine bar and restaurant, L’Escale. Sip some vino (from the 350-bottle list) and indulge in spinach gnocchi with sea urchin, monkfish ossobuco, and softshell crab in a black sepia sauce.

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