It is Week Three of our month-long discovery trip through western Colorado. My wife, three daughters, and I are water-soaked, wizened road warriors, more than halfway through our quest to visit every major hot springs in Colorado. The car smells like sulphur and campfires; bathing suits and towels are draped over seat backs and we are on our way to the next set of pools. On this afternoon, we’re driving from Durango to Ouray on U.S.