[...] as I float slowly downriver, the mass of fish peeling away in front of me reveals an occasional monster hiding among them: a Tyee, a chinook salmon weighing more then 30 pounds. Dedicated sports fishers and hobbyists flock to shorelines and boats in hopes of catching one of the large Tyees, but are happy with packing a box to ship home, laden with the fish they do catch. Salmon can be caught here year round, but during the height of the season (July through September), it’s possible to experience part of the salmon cycle: try to catch one for the dinner table, watch from a safe distance as shaggy grizzly bears swoop their meals up in one huge paw, and go for a swim among the fish as they mass in the river. When I reach toward the fish, there’s no frenzy to escape — only an effortless dodge into the mass of scales, eyes, fins and tails. Earlier in the day, I’d wandered along a pathway at the Quinsam River Hatchery and tried to spy salmon in the river that skirts the pathway’s edge. Founded in 1924, the club is dedicated to angling for chinook salmon on light lines, and allowing open competition to all anglers. In my boat, I’m getting some history with my Tyee fishing lesson. Because this is such an old-school and traditional style,” says my instructor, “some people say that fishing in the Tyee pools is like fishing in a museum. In the dense forests and river estuaries of the Bute Inlet, deep inside the traditional territory of the Homalco Nation, grizzly bears fish the glacial-fed waters. On a tour, I’m shuttled between a boat that has transported me here from Campbell River to a van that takes me to a number of secure viewing platforms so I can watch the shaggy brown bears in safety — without tempting them away from the meaty pink salmon. Cubs play in the water, standing up on their hind legs when they hear a nearby boat’s engine roar to life. An on-site pub and dining room cover dishes ranging from casual to gourmet. On Quadra Island, across the water from Painter’s Lodge, this oceanfront resort has rooms, cabins and homes for guests. Watch the cruise ships on the Discovery Passage from your seat as you enjoy sushi, tamari-ginger salmon or braised short ribs, among other dishes. Rooms here range from boutique hotel style to guesthouses to a harborside honeymoon suite. The resort’s dinner menu has main course highlights including cocoa-butter seared scallops, herb-grilled salmon and venison chops with wild blueberries. Hearty egg dishes, pancakes and stuffed French toast range from $9-$13. Grab a seat dockside and enjoy the view while savoring classic fish and chips dishes featuring cod, salmon or halibut (one-piece dish starts at $8.40). The three-hour raft and snorkel with salmon tour allows you to view the annual salmon run from an inflatable raft or swim among the fish in the Campbell River. While spying whales is one option from this outfitter, opt for the Grizzly Bear Tour during salmon season so you can see the brown bears snacking on their favorite fish.