Take A Winter Dive Into Mono Lake Area

Despite the occasional sign that says “Closed for Winter,” however, there’s more to this Eastern Sierra outpost than just a void between Tahoe and Mammoth, even in winter. The landscape photography is just as compelling (if not more so), and the outdoor adventures lack the crowds you’ll find in summer or that you might battle with at the winter resorts right now. For outdoor enthusiasts who bring their own gear, there are myriad ways to explore this lake that’s larger than San Francisco, as well as the surrounding region, and it’s a peaceful setting where you can still find the endangered sound of silence. The city of Los Angeles has sipped from this water since 1941, and had it not been for a grassroots effort to limit the amount diverted, this lake that in summer houses [...] with rising water levels and new legislation, the overall health and vitality of the basin is making a comeback. Begin by the lake with a camera at sunrise, and to capture the tufa mineral formations, head to either Navy Beach or the South Tufa Reserve. At the Natural Reserve boardwalk on the west end of the lake, it’s quiet enough to hear waves created by the bubbling freshwater springs, and if it’s a cold morning with pogonip ice fog, drive north to Conway Summit for a view of the fog-covered lake. Fuel up with an omelet at Nicely’s restaurant, then grab whatever gear you brought and find an outdoor adventure. If you have cross-country skis, climb toward the rim of Panum Crater above the southern shore. North of Lee Vining, skiers can trek to the ghost town of Bodie, and since the final 3 miles of road are unplowed, it would be very rare if the abandoned town (now a state historic park) had any other visitors. On this rocky, volcanic caldera of an island, there are remnants of a man-made chicken-wire volcano left over from 60 years ago, when filmmakers constructed a fake Krakatoa for the movie “Fair Wind to Java.” The island is closed from April to August as a sanctuary for migrating gulls, but winter visitors can paddle to the island — and even camp on shore. For an adventurous new hobby, Sierra Mountain Guides offers ice-climbing classes in nearby Lee Vining Canyon. [...] if there’s time, head back to the tufa towers for sunset — especially if you missed them at sunrise. Warm up with chowder and country-fried steak, and shoot some pool in the adjoining bar with its one tap of PBR. The general store has snacks and produce, and when Nicely’s closes on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, the Hawaiian food truck Ohanas395 serves seared ahi tacos in June Lake, which is 15 minutes south. For dinner, head north to the Virginia Creek Settlement for hand-rolled, veggie pesto pizza with a mason jar of Mammoth IPA. Always check the weather before setting out, and for sunset photos of the tufa towers, arrive at least an hour before sunset and stay at least 30 minutes after. Since most of the passes are closed for winter, take Highway 50 south of Lake Tahoe and connect to Minden, Nev. Tufa formations that sparkle with ice and an otherworldly lakeshore. Even though the Mono Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center is closed throughout the winter, the endlessly helpful Mono Lake Committee (www.monolake.org, (760) 647-6595), has an office and bookstore just a few doors down from Nicely’s.