Modern wineries usually aren’t modest affairs, and something has got to help pay for the spectacular settings, where architects, interior designers and landscape artists enjoy nearly the same marquee billing as the winemakers. The Gould Evans architecture is stunning, with sloped ceilings supported by expansive glass wings, a rammed-earth wall, and rich finishes of black walnut, travertine and basalt stone. For $100, I could have gotten the Reserve Experience, which features a tasting in the Library, enhanced with barrel samples, a cheese-charcuterie board, plus a tour of the 6,875-square-foot estate house (tasting room), the 7,500-square-foot winery, 12,000 square feet of caves, and vineyards. Yet, with such an open, welcoming layout to the place, it’s easy to do a self-tour, and my host let me take a peek inside the labyrinthine caves after I asked. The owners are George and Pam Hamel Jr., the managing director is George Hamel III, and the winemaker is John B.