Jane Arraf travels to the Iraqi capital to meet the artists hoping to reinstate this historic nation’s place in the contemporary art worldHussein Adel is a struggling young artist sharing a tiny bedsit and living on take-out sandwiches. But the car horns blaring on the busy Baghdad street outside are a reminder that he is living his dream.“Baghdad is where everything is happening – it’s like New York,” he says, surrounded by his paintings and sketches on the bed he and his two roommates take turns sharing.Al-Qaida clashes with American troops were like a film or a fairytale.