“Chicken is funny: you either have to do nothing to it or you do a lot,” Michael Chiarello, the chef and TV personality, once told me. By “nothing,” Chiarello meant just seasoning it with salt and pepper and sauteing, grilling, baking or poaching it. By “a lot,” he meant using the variety of techniques that are so popular for chicken cookery in the country: salt -water or buttermilk brining, marinating, dry curing, smoking, wood-grilling, spice-crusting, barbecuing and deep-frying. This week’s recipe, adapted from New York chef Justin Smilie’s “Slow Fires,” does a lot to chicken. The chicken is first brined in a salt, sugar and lemon solution, then marinated in a mixture of mustard, rosemary and anchovy, then pan roasted, and finally basted with its own juices. At Avelina, we make this dish with barnyard chickens from High Plains Poultry in Bennett.