The Best Fish Is Also The Most Local. Why Is It So Hard To Find?

The New York Times News Service Syndicate, Denver Post
Tue, 04/30/2024 - 8:13am

By Melissa Clark, The New York Times MONTAUK, N.Y. — On a cold, windy February morning on Shinnecock Bay, on the South Fork of Long Island, New York, Ricky Sea Smoke fished for clams from the back of his 24-foot boat. The fisherman, whose real name is Rick Stevens, expertly sorted through haul after haul as they were dumped onto the sorting rack. Among the usual littlenecks and cherrystones were delicacies that would make chefs swoon: sweet, plump razor clams; vermilion-fleshed blood clams; and dainty limpets (also known as slipper snails) with their inimitable saline, buttery flavor.

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