The next time you’re frustrated by a dish that doesn’t turn out picture-perfect, the proper attitude is: So what? Refer to Exhibit A: a third and rather hurried attempt to re-create the Italian egg drop soup called stracciatella, which has cheese in it but is not to be confused with the Italian buffalo’s-milk cheese or the Italian ice cream of the same name (“stracciare” means to rip up; shreds of some kind are involved). It takes just five or six ingredients to make this quick and healthful soup, but technique is key.

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